Trullo
Trullo review: Tim Siadatan's Italian restaurant on St Paul's Road has been Highbury's best dinner for a decade. Handmade pasta, a good list, Sunday lunch.
Trullo has been a neighbourhood restaurant for long enough that the neighbourhood has changed around it. The restaurant has not.
The room
One long room on the ground floor, a mezzanine upstairs, yellow walls, dark wood, warm lighting.
What to order
The pappardelle with shin of beef ragu - nine hours in the oven - is the dish that made Trullo’s name. A short rib, a fish on the bone, an olive-oil cake to finish.
The drinks list
Almost entirely Italian, generous by the glass.
What you will pay
Dinner for two with a pasta each, a main to share, pudding, a bottle: around £140. Sunday lunch is around £40 a head set.
The verdict
If you live in Islington, Trullo is a local treasure.
Clara Whitfield
Editor and restaurant critic
Clara Whitfield is the editor and lead restaurant critic of Vivi. She has eaten through the London restaurant scene professionally for over a decade, contributing reviews and features to regional and national food publications.
She writes Vivi's weekly restaurant review and the Saturday essay. She prefers early dinners and a table facing the room.
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