Brat
Brat review in Shoreditch: Tomos Parry's wood-fire Basque-influenced restaurant is still the most exciting dinner in East London. Whole turbot and much more.
Brat is on the first floor above a pub on Redchurch Street, up a staircase that smells faintly of rosemary. It has been the most exciting dinner in East London for the better part of a decade, and nothing about a recent visit suggested that has changed.
The room
Warm wooden floors, a counter that wraps around the open kitchen, and a single large window looking down onto the street. The dining room seats about 45 and is always full.
What to order
The whole turbot is the reason you are here. It is grilled over wood in the open kitchen, arrives at the table on a long oval platter, and is sufficient for two. Before it: the bread, the salt-cod croquette, the spider crab on toast. Leave room for the Basque cheesecake.
The drinks list
Short, mostly Iberian, with a small and clever set of English whites. The bartender knows the list and will steer you.
What you will pay
Dinner for two with the turbot, a starter each, pudding, half a bottle, service: around £230. It is a special-occasion price. Brat delivers a special occasion.
The verdict
Worth booking a month ahead. Go two-handed, order the turbot, order the custard tart.
Clara Whitfield
Editor and restaurant critic
Clara Whitfield is the editor and lead restaurant critic of Vivi. She has eaten through the London restaurant scene professionally for over a decade, contributing reviews and features to regional and national food publications.
She writes Vivi's weekly restaurant review and the Saturday essay. She prefers early dinners and a table facing the room.
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