Quo Vadis
Quo Vadis review: Jeremy Lee's Soho institution on Dean Street is the best lunch in the neighbourhood. Smoked eel sandwich, a pink dining room, a long list.
Jeremy Lee has been at Quo Vadis since 2012 and the place has, in that time, found a perfect register: generous without being showy, old-fashioned without being nostalgic.
The room
Pink walls, white linen, deep banquettes, Windsor chairs. Windows onto Dean Street. A bar on the ground floor - also worth a stop on its own - and the restaurant up the narrow staircase behind.
What to order
The smoked eel sandwich, on toasted soda bread with horseradish. Always. A starter of the daily fish tartare. The grouse, in season, is the best in London.
The drinks list
Generous, thoughtful, priced on the low side for Soho.
What you will pay
Set lunch: two courses for around £30. A proper lunch off the carte, with wine: £75 a head.
The verdict
The most London-ly restaurant in Soho. You should eat there at least twice a year.
Clara Whitfield
Editor and restaurant critic
Clara Whitfield is the editor and lead restaurant critic of Vivi. She has eaten through the London restaurant scene professionally for over a decade, contributing reviews and features to regional and national food publications.
She writes Vivi's weekly restaurant review and the Saturday essay. She prefers early dinners and a table facing the room.
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